Gangneung: The Coffee Coast Two Hours from Seoul

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Search “Gangneung” in English and most of what comes back still treats it as a long haul — a coastal town you commit a full day of travel to reach. That stopped being true in December 2017, when the Gyeonggang Line opened ahead of the 2018 Winter Olympics and put a direct KTX on the route. Seoul to Gangneung now runs under two hours. The guides have not caught up; the train has.

Ojukheon's tiled-roof hanok complex in Gangneung, the birthplace of Shin Saimdang and Yi I, pictured on South Korea's 5,000 and 50,000 won banknotes
Ojukheon, the hanok complex where Shin Saimdang and her son Yi I were born — the house pictured on two different Korean banknotes. Photo: 최광모, Wikimedia Commons · CC0

Gangneung’s house on two banknotes

Ojukheon is a Joseon-era hanok on the edge of Gangneung, and it is a genuinely unusual claim to fame: a mother and son, born in the same house, each appear on Korean currency. Shin Saimdang, a painter and calligrapher, is on the 50,000 won note. Her son, the Confucian scholar Yi I — better known by his pen name Yulgok — is on the 5,000 won note, with Ojukheon itself printed as the background image behind him.

Ojukheon takes its name from the black bamboo (ojuk) that still grows around the house. It sits about 3.5 km from Gangneung Station, close enough for a taxi to make it a stop on the way into town rather than a special trip.

The coffee street started at a vending machine

Gangneung calls itself Korea’s coffee capital, and unlike a lot of tourism taglines, this one has a specific, checkable origin. In the 1980s, Anmok Beach had no cafés at all — just coffee vending machines by the sand. The coffee got a reputation anyway, and people kept coming back for it.

In 2000, Park Yi-chu — a hand-drip specialist now widely credited as a founder of Korea’s specialty coffee scene — opened Bohemian by the beach. Terarosa and Bom Coffee followed, and the three roasters turned one stretch of sand into what people now call Coffee Street: over 40 specialty cafés packed into about one kilometer, all facing the East Sea.

Anmok Beach in Gangneung, clear water and sand with the town's skyline visible up the coast — the beach the coffee street grew up around
Anmok Beach, the stretch of sand the coffee street grew up around — vending machines first, then Bohemian, then forty more cafés. Photo: Choi2451, Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 3.0

Once a year the city makes a festival of it. The Gangneung Coffee Festival runs 21–25 October in 2026, and for this edition it deliberately spread out of Anmok into Jumunjin, Jungang Market, Ojukheon and Okgye — worth reading before you book, because a world congress overlaps the first three days of it and the city’s rooms go with it.

Gangwon State, the province Gangneung sits in, is itself a recent name — Korean only changed the province’s status to a special self-governing province in June 2023, and “Gangwon State” is the English name that came with it. Another detail English guides tend to still get wrong.

What to eat: tofu set with seawater, not chemicals

Chodang sundubu is Gangneung’s other specific, traceable food story. The dish dates back to the Joseon official Heo Yeop, whose family name gives Chodang Village its own — and the method still used there today curdles fresh soy milk with East Sea seawater instead of the magnesium or calcium salts used elsewhere in Korea. About 20 tofu restaurants cluster in Chodang Village, busy enough on weekends that lines form outside the well-known ones.

Getting there
KTX-eum from Seoul Station, under 2h (since Dec 2017)
Ojukheon
About 3.5 km from Gangneung Station
Anmok Coffee Street
About 5.8 km from Gangneung Station
Chodang Sundubu Village
Tofu set with seawater, not additives — about 20 restaurants
Province
Gangwon State (renamed from Gangwon Province, June 2023)

Getting around

Ojukheon, Anmok Coffee Street and Gyeongpo Lake all sit within a few kilometers of the station and of each other — closer together than the spread-out sights in Gyeongju or Andong. A red Sea Tea bus runs a scenic coastal loop connecting the coffee street with Jumunjin, stopping near Gyeongpo along the way, which covers most of it without needing a car. Jumunjin itself carries more than a harbor — it’s where Goblin, The Glory and a BTS album cover were all filmed, within a few minutes of each other.

Where to stay

Stays in Gangneung covers both the beachfront and the coffee-street side of town, an easy taxi from the KTX station rather than deep in it. Bring a Korean eSIM before you go — Naver Map or Kakao Map is how you actually find the right café among forty of them, and both track the Sea Tea bus in real time if you are relying on it.

If you are combining Gangneung with other KTX cities in one trip, our rail pass guide covers when buying one beats paying per ride.

Quick answers

How long does it take to get from Seoul to Gangneung?
Under two hours by KTX-eum from Seoul Station, since the Gyeonggang Line opened in December 2017 ahead of the 2018 Winter Olympics.
Why is Gangneung known as Korea's coffee capital?
Anmok Beach had only coffee vending machines in the 1980s, and the reputation stuck. In 2000, Park Yi-chu opened Bohemian by the beach, and more roasters followed — now over 40 specialty cafés packed into about one kilometer of coastline.
What is chodang sundubu?
A tofu set dish traced to the Joseon official Heo Yeop, whose family name gives Chodang Village its own. It’s still curdled with East Sea seawater instead of the magnesium or calcium salts used elsewhere in Korea, and about 20 restaurants in Chodang Village serve it.
Is Gangwon Province the same as Gangwon State?
Yes — Korea changed the province’s status to a special self-governing province in June 2023, and “Gangwon State” is the English name that came with it. Many English guides still use the older name.

Checked 16 August 2026. Gyeonggang Line opening date and Seoul–Gangneung KTX journey time from Korail service records and contemporaneous rail reporting. Ojukheon’s connection to Shin Saimdang and Yi I, and their appearance on the 50,000 and 5,000 won notes, from the Bank of Korea’s own banknote design information and Korean heritage sources. Anmok Coffee Street’s origin at the beach vending machines, and Park Yi-chu’s Bohemian opening in 2000, from Korean coffee-industry reporting. Chodang Sundubu’s origin and seawater-curdling method from Korean food-history sources. Gangwon Province’s June 2023 redesignation as Gangwon State from Korean government announcements. Distances from Gangneung Station from mapped routing. Hours, prices and train schedules change — confirm before you travel.